Prisoner of Shangri-la

Well, staying here next semester has been all but ruled out. Today, I talked with the headmaster who very clearly stated the impossibility of me getting a work visa in Qinghai. What is still to be determined is whether or not I can stay here until the end of the term, or if I must high-tail it out of town next week. As of right now, my visa expires in 12 days…and counting. Tomorrow the Fates decide.

Funny that today marks 3 months in Rebgong.

Also interesting to see that when you are in trouble, your friends really do help you. Its nice to see that perhaps I do have more friends than I thought.

Perhaps “vanishing” isn’t the right terminology as I never really had a work visa to begin with, only a lowly 30-day travel visa that has long since expired.  This school I work for (namely, the headmaster) apparently is either incompetant or enjoys making life very very difficult for all parties involved.  This is my visa story.

Before I came, I was promised that the school would take care of my visa, while all other costs (housing, salary, etc.) are handled by private funding source.  My thirty days past, nothing was done, but I was assured that the school would take responsibility and that I would not have to pay the fine (which could be up to 5000 RMB).  A month after my visa expired, the school finally attempted to get the visa (an effort which was not facilitated by the new visa regulations this year that required a medical exam at a government facility and other innane materials). When that was finally done, the Public Security Bureau figured out that I had been here illegally for a month, and proceed to fine me personally 2000RMB, money that I don’t even have. So, my boss Charlotte paid for it (although its the school’s responsiblity) with the verbal promise of the headmaster (a sketchy dude) that he would pay her back at the end of the term (very unlikely).  Oh, this visa oddessy isn’t over yet. So after we paid the fine, we had to get a “Foreign Expert” visa which would supposedly transition smoothly into the ever elusive “work” visa.  But, beauracracy being as it is, because I am merely a college graduate and have no teaching experience, they refused to give me a foreign expert visa (although I have already been teaching for 3 months).  All I know is that I am leaving the country on December 24th for Hawaii and I will be lying on a white sand beach on X-mas day, vanishing visa and all!

This is quoted from an email I wrote to Charlotte, the director of the English Teaching Program in Tongren.

July 10, 2006 

"Maybe I should explain a little of where i’m coming from and what I hope to gain out of this experience. The past few years the main direction of my life has been towards "spiritual seeking," and I use the phrase with caution.  I did not grow up religious though in college was naturally drawn to Buddhism and over the past two years have started meditating "seriously."  In addition to meditation and a religious orientation, I sought to see the world through different eyes culturally, from as many perspectives as I could in the year I spent abroad traveling through Asia.  Now that I’ve graduated from University, some of that seeking has subsided. I see this next year very differently than any that have come before: 1) as a way to help others in a meaningful and concrete way, as much an act of "engaged compassion" as one of self-exploration and self-learning 2) to undermine my sense of cultural-self-centeredness and participate in a totally different kind of community 3) I can’t say that I have many expectations of meeting my "root guru" but I would like to study Tibetan/Chinese and interact with wiser beings than myself."

That was a month and half ago.  I don’t necessarily have any perspicacious comments at the moment, though I admit being here is not exactly what I was expecting. First of all, the level of development that can be found in Tongren is astonishing. This is the 3rd world right? There are several supermarkets and banks, flat screen TVs, DSL, prodigious cell phone reception, and some really cushy apartments (much nicer than mine) with all the modern amenities you could think of. I don’t want to give the impression that most people have these things (the vast majority DO NOT), but the fact that they are readily avalible is striking. A friend commented that I was almost as if I were still living down the road instead of half a world away hidden amoungst the foreboding mountains of Northern Tibet. The internet can create a strange kind of bridge between cultures, between the past and future (I’m twelve hours ahead of EST), rather anachronistically. I admit I’m not sure what to make of it. Any suggestions?

Main Classroom Building, originally uploaded by grimlockq.

Follow the link to see a photo tour of the school. This large imposing white building is where most of the classes are held. Directly behind it is Rowong Monastery, a famous Geluk monastery.

My first week of teaching done! It’s early evening as I write this in my “fly” pair of 5 kuai slippers I bought at the supermarket matched in style only by a skimpy (or mid-thigh length) pair of boxer-briefs. To much information you say?

But I digress…I have to say that this will be a pretty relaxing job, I think. I’ll only have between 12-14 classes a week of 45 minutes each with plenty of free time to read, do yoga, cook my own food, learn Tibetan/Chinese, meditate (fingers crossed), and generally establish a life here. Though I haven’t really made any friends yet, I hope I will once I start learning the language. My first Tibetan class is this Sunday morning and I’ve been trying to study some Amdo dialect on my own. The central Tibetan that I studied in school and the Amdo dialect spoken in Tongren are mutually unintelligible.

Plans for the weekend? No clubbing here. Might wander around the town and the monasteries snapping photos and buying some odds and ends to fix up my apartment.

ETP A Close-up, originally uploaded by grimlockq.

These are some of my students from ETP A, the most advanced class.

Today was the first day of classes. I have to admit I was a little nervous walking into a class of 30, 18 and 19 year olds. In the states that would have been a college level course but here in Tongren, things seem to be different (a somewhat axiomatic supposition I suppose). So for my first class I got to know the students through a short oral introduction and writing assignment. Here are some excerpts from the most advanced class (unedited):

“I watched TV and went to see Henan horse-race which was unforgetable because it is so beautiful. Do you know how to ride horse? I don’t know before this summer holiday, but I used this time to riding horse.” - Fred

I found the image to be quite striking. Witnessing traditional horse races on the wild grasslands of the plateau.

“For me, this summer holiday was so-so. We had celibration Naga Festival. At that time, all of my friends together joined the Naga Festival. After the festival, its harvest day. I worked really hard that time. And I was exhousted that time. Then I rested for four day at home. After that, I came to school.” - Lisa

A reminder of where these kids come from, mostly from farming or nomadic families.

All in all, a good first day. Will post pictures of ETP A class soon (this is the most advanced class).

It’s not as bad as I thought it would be although the bathroom needs some serious work. I’m staying in a two bed-room apartment (another teacher should be coming in less than two weeks…fingers crossed) which included a large living room, “balcony” or concrete alcove for hanging clothes, and a modest size kitchen with various cookware and oddities. The bathroom however…well let’s just say I haven’t bathed since I got here for a reason.

Have I only been here three days? It feels like months. Must be all the traveling and the shock of being on the opposite side of Earth from everything I know, from the people that I care about. The altitude might be having an effect as well, my lungs have been hurting since Sunday, the result being a soporific one. Feeding myself hasn’t been the most successful either, though now at least I know where the markets are to buy fresh vegetables and things and have been eating better.

Teaching…teaching is hard. My class yesterday with ETP A kind of bombed, no one understood what I was saying and the students were really rowdy. I think the subject matter “Love and Marriage in North America” kind of when over their heads (it was the first chapter of the text book we’re using, not my idea) as the vocabulary was too difficult. Today I’m teaching ETP B a double period and I think this one is planned better including some games and even a magic trick! Seriously, none of my teachers growing up was even half as fun as us ETP teachers try to be. And yes, I’m somewhat resentful of that Off to class!

Tongren (2500m) is a small Tibetan town nestled in a valley protected by majestic green mountains on both sides. I’ve been walking the town these past few days, visiting the phone company (to get internet in my apartment…rather difficult to negotiate in broken Chinese), some restaurants, the market street, and the nearby Geluk monastery. The school I’m teaching at (民族师范学校 or Minorities Teaching School) is located near the top of the town away from the town center. I admit my first impression of the town was one similar to Dharamsala (indeed many of the little concrete whole-in-the-wall shops with mass produced store signs selling housewares are very similar) a small green town at the foot of mountains in India. Sadly the chai walas (tea shops) i found to be missing…quel dommage! More impressions forthcoming as well as some spectacular photos.