I managed to get my camera fixed just in time to capture my leg on fire. The “treatment” was for a sore knee…though when the women explained it she said “fire” and “burn” but apparently it wasn’t “dangerous.” I thought I’d give it a try and I have to say…my knee does feel better. The treatment consists very simply of a wet towel, two kinds of smelly chinese medicinal liquids (one involving alcohol obviously), a lighter, and a high pain threshold. Voila!
I suppose that’s better than "left for dead in the Gobie Desert" or "surrounded by herd of pandas during mating season." It’s "golden week" here in China, that is to say the week after Chinese New Year when everyone and their mothers are traveling. The result: stranded foreigners like myself praying and wishing for a train ticket. I guess I’ll just have to wait. At least the weather is nice here.
Losar (Tibetan New Year) in Lhagang, Kham
A big thanks to Zach and Rinpoche for letting me free-load for a thoughtful/restful week in Lhagang, a tiny Tibetan town in Kham snugged soundly in the mountains 12,000 feet above sea level. I am now in transit to Beijing…though am not exactly sure how I will get there. Probably an endless 35-hr train. ewww. Here are some pictures:

Zach and me at the teachings.

The golden stupa where Zach lives. I’m squinting due to a combination of glaring sun, fierce wind, and nearby yak dung.

Kham style Tibetan house. Totally different than traditional housing in Amdo.
These past few days Steve, Zach, and I have been having impromptu head-scratching dialogues on the “Tibet Question.” Historically, this had to do with situation of Tibet as an independent country in opposition to being within Chinese control. Our discussions however seemed to center around the role of non-government organizations in their promotion of the Tibetan cause (mostly economic, cultural, and religious). Steve and I both worked in ETP (English Training Program) in Amdo as teachers funded by various NGO’s.
The question was then put, “What is the difference between these NGO’s and Christian missionaries that come to live in Tibetan areas?” Both promote infrastructure development (water projects, schools, etc.) and both want Tibetan to be “converted” to their way of thinking of the world. While I do think it is true that NGO’s (like Trace Foundation) are more honest in their approach (missionaries for example will never admit what they are trying to do because their presence is illegal in China), is it a difference of kind or of degree? Many western funded NGO’s doing work in Tibet are anti-Chinese, pro-women rights, and pro-humanities studies. How are these implicit views changing the ways Tibetans consider their own society, and how are programs funded with this vision shaping their future? First “anti-Chinese” tendencies of these organizations is some ways are preventing Tibetans from benefiting from integration with the larger Chinese society. In fact many of the students who graduate from said programs (like the one I taught) have barely passable Chinese. This may prevent them from getting government jobs which would help them affect (at least) their local environment. Secondly, while I personally am pro-women’s rights, is this ushering in an unwelcomed change into a society and culture that has been a certain way for a thousand years? When is it ok to change some traditional ways of thinking while preserving others. Certainly these NGOs follow their own agenda when deciding what traditions to preserve. Lastly, the emphasis of primarily humanities education verses science and math for Tibetans severely limits the options and impact they can have on Tibetan communities once they graduate. Many Tibetans graduate from ETP with more or less useless “da zhuan” degrees (like a junior college degree) which companies and governments don’t think very highly of. Furthermore, if Tibetans concentrated on learning science and Chinese, they could more probably attended better Chinese universities and return to their hometowns with enough technical expertise to help build the infrastructure Tibetan areas need so much. The question I pose is whether or not these organizations that aim to protect and honor a culture, in the end (and maybe inevitabely), impose their own agendas on unsuspecting people. Maybe that is the risk you take when you try to help “others” cross-culturally. Missionaries certainly have little respect for a culture and people, their only goal (by any means possible) to convert and thus strengthen their own belief and cultural superiority.
But despite the actions of “outsiders” no matter how well intentioned, it seems clear that it is up to Tibetans figure it all out. Somehow it reminds me of all the talk by the international community in the 1960s when China first occupied Tibet of “Tibetan self-determination.” I wonder what that would really mean these days. But I think that is probably a whole other topic altogether…
My camera is dead for the time being. However, I hope to have some pictures of New Year’s for you all in a couple weeks. Tomorrow Zach and I will travel to Lhagang on a bumpy 4 hrs mini-van ride. I’m told there will be a couple weeks of teachings by a high lama from this area, half in Chinese and half in Tibetan - all in the backdrop of a Tibetan cultural experience. Should be interesting!
Travel Update: Chengdu, Sichuan
Just arrived on a 18hr over-night sleeper train from Kunming to Chengdu (the capital of Sichuan). Its just like I remember, big, sprawling, concrete and dirty. Incidently, I also was able to cram in a couple hours at the Panda breeding and research observatory. And the rumors are true, pandas (adult, middling, and baby variety) are all equally and absurdly cute. The Chinese name for Pandas is "bear-cat", and after observing them, they do possess features of both animals - the size of a bear, the disposition of a cat. Unfortunately no pictures because my battery was dead!
Next: Tagong (Lhagang) and the Tibetan grasslands for some Dharma teachings
“Sui Bian” is in some ways equivalent to “whatever” in English. When applied to traveling it has more of a sense of “planless wandering”. So here is a glimpse of my sui bian traveling:
This was taken on the zip-cord at a rainforest park in the south of Yunnan. Lucky I held on to the camera! Thinking of everyone at home.
Next stop: Tibetan grasslands in Sichuan to visit Zach.
