Qinghai, travel, nature, lifeOctober 18, 2006 7:54 am


So as the legend goes…there was a cruel, wrathful diety who ruled over North Eastern Tibet. He cared nothing for other beings, slaying humans and livestock where ever he went, causing immense suffering. Seeing that nothing would disuade him from doing harm, his goddess wife after many failed attempts finally divised a fool-proof plan. Being equally fierce in her compassion, she murdered the couple’s only son, allowing her husband to feel the pain that he had been so recklessly causing. This is that bodhisattva’s abode, Huaden Lhamo, the protector of this part of the Amdo grassland.

It’s a story that would easily send chills up one’s spine, especially since the shrine was nearly abandoned, caves lurking close by. Murdered babies? Dismembered animal parts (at the entrance)? Statues with manical smiles hidden in the dark? My head missing!?


That’s real fear on my face people. And nervous relief!

lifeOctober 12, 2006 1:55 am

Tomorrow morning I’ll be headed to Xining to get some paper work done for my work visa. My tourist visa actually expired almost a month ago, which would result in a pretty heavy fine if they "caught" me. Of course, the school would supposedly pay for it…lets just hope they’re aren’t any random road blocks on the way to Xining.

UPDATE: After being poked and prodded at the Government Quarantine Office and paying a hefty (comparatively) fee, we managed to get my medical check and occupation certificate. Looks like i’ll have a valid visa afterall. On another note, anyone want to donate frequently flier miles so I can fly home for the winter? 

yak, travel, natureOctober 11, 2006 9:00 am
Me riding a real yak in the wild! No rope or magic mirrors! Here Ricky and I are posing with the family that helped me to accomplish a life long dream. Click the image to download the movie (2:37, 20mb, mp4).

And for those of you who don’t have alot of bandwidth to spare, I caved and posted it on YouTube.

Qinghai, travel, nature, lifeOctober 8, 2006 2:07 am
So I think I’m done with streaming video, the quality is just so bad. This time I’ve uploaded the file onto my UVA account. Click the image to download the movie (10mb, mp4)!  Ok, its on GooTube now as well, for posterity.
Tibetan culture, Qinghai, yak, lifeOctober 7, 2006 12:15 pm

Yak Riding on Qinghai Lake, originally uploaded by grimlockq.

It’s Saturday. That means Ricky and i have just returned from our 6 day romp across the Tibetan grasslands and mountain passes. We rented a black sedan, a tanka-painter/driver, and a university student from Xining and set off into into the cultural heart of Amdo - what is now Qinghai Province. Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Qinghai Lake (pictured above), Sun and Moon Pass
Day 2: Kumbum Monastery, birthplace of 14th Dalai Lama, Baima Monastery
Day 3: Jianza Mani, birthplace of 10th Panchen Lama
Day 4: Sky-burial, Eight-corner Fortress, Labrang Monastery
Day 5: Lhamo Lake (Henan), nomad encounter, Lhamo Mountain Shrine
Day 6: Nyingma Monastery (Zeku), Mani Stone

Great times! Stay tuned for highlights!